Introduction: Moving North Through Tuscan History

Waking up in Castel del Piano on the southern flanks of Monte Amiata, there is an unmistakable freshness in the morning air that only an extinct volcano coated in dense beech and chestnut forests can provide. By 07:30am, our bikes were idling outside our hotel, exhausts humming a low, steady cadence. Day 9 of our 15-day Twisties & The Tuscan Sun expedition promised one of the most culturally rich and visually arresting routes of our entire itinerary—a 180-mile journey from the mountain shadows of southern Tuscany, across rugged central ridges to the cliff-perched Etruscan town of Volterra, and finally north to the grand Renaissance walled city of Lucca.

As tour leader, designing European motorcycle routes is all about weaving deep history together with technical, flowing asphalt, and today delivered that balance in absolute perfection. We traded the pine-scented hairpins of Monte Amiata for golden wheat valleys and cypress-lined crests, climbing up to the ancient alabaster capital of Volterra before finishing our ride along the magnificent tree-lined ramparts of Lucca. The tarmac was warm, the skies brilliant blue, and the camaraderie in our group at an all-time high as we crossed into the second half of our tour.

Today’s Route

Our 180-mile trajectory carved diagonally across Tuscany from south to northwest. Leaving Castel del Piano, we tackled the tight, technical ascent up Monte Amiata, where smooth asphalt flicks through tight third-gear hairpins under dense forest canopy before dropping toward the Val di Merse south of Siena.

From there, scenic backroads took us toward Volterra, perched high on a windswept ridge 540 meters above sea level. The approach offers miles of sweeping curves through sun-bleached hills with panoramic views of the Tuscan wilderness before ascending under ancient Etruscan walls. After lunch and exploration, the final leg brought us north through Val d’Elsa to the Lucca plain, where the colossal Renaissance walls of Lucca welcomed us for the evening.

The Ride

There is no better wake-up call than climbing Monte Amiata before the summer heat settles over the valleys. Rolling out of Castel del Piano, the gradient rises sharply through quiet, perfectly banked hairpins under chestnut and beech trees. The deep shade kept the asphalt cool and grippy, letting every rider set a confident, flowing rhythm. Climbing Monte Amiata before the sun gets too high provided the ideal morning start: cool, quiet, wooded hairpins that set a fantastic tone for the day.

The road over Monte Amiata is a rider’s dream in early morning light. The tree canopy creates dappled patterns on the tarmac, and with almost zero traffic, the rhythm of leaning left and right through smooth third-gear bends felt effortless. We paused near a high forest clearing to let the group assemble and enjoy the crisp, pine-infused mountain breeze before descending toward the Tuscan plains.

By mid-morning, our route brought us into the approach for Volterra. Founded by the Etruscans over 2,500 years ago, this hilltop city sits atop a high plateau bounded by dramatic clay cliffs known as Le Balze. We parked near the historic city gate to explore Volterra’s ancient Etruscan walls and centuries-old tradition of alabaster carving. The sheer drop off the cliff edge is staggering, with the valley floor falling away hundreds of meters below.

Standing on Volterra’s ancient stone ramparts, you gain a true perspective on Italian history. These walls predate the Roman Empire, built from massive stone blocks that have endured for millennia. The views across the clay hills stretching toward the Tyrrhenian Sea offered one of the most stunning photographic backdrop opportunities of the whole tour.

We spent time walking through Volterra’s narrow cobblestone lanes, stopping into artisan alabaster workshops where local craftsmen transform translucent white stone into delicate sculptures and lamps. Lunch was an informal affair at an outdoor café in the Piazza dei Priori, enjoying cold drinks and local pasta before heading back to the bikes.

Leaving Volterra in the early afternoon, we turned north through the Val d’Elsa on quiet backroads that skirted olive groves and vineyards. Reaching Lucca in late afternoon, we rolled up to its famous 16th-century Renaissance walls. Riding the tree-lined avenues bordering the ramparts on two wheels was the perfect finish to an outstanding 180-mile run across Tuscany.

Lucca’s city walls are unique in Europe—completely intact, 12 meters high, and transformed into a wide, tree-shaded parkland loop above the old city. Arriving here on motorcycles at the end of a long riding day gave everyone in the group a sense of accomplishment and awe.

Rider Experiences

Our group had plenty to celebrate over drinks this evening. Here are a few reflections from the saddle:

Richard (BMW R1250GS Adventure): “Starting in cool mountain woods on Monte Amiata and ending at the Renaissance walls of Lucca felt like riding through three different regions in one day. The cliff drop at Volterra was breathtaking!”

Claire & Mark (Ducati Multistrada V4): “Volterra was our favorite stop today. Watching craftsmen shape alabaster, taking in 360-degree views, and riding smooth backroads all the way to Lucca—it was pure magic on two wheels.”

Gareth (Triumph Tiger 900 GT Pro): “The morning hairpins climbing Monte Amiata were smooth, quiet, and completely free of traffic. Wild Roads’ route selection is unbeatable.”

Hotel & Evening

Our hotel in Lucca sits just outside the historic gates with secure private parking for our motorcycles. After settling in, we walked into Piazza dell’Anfiteatro—an elliptical square built on ancient Roman foundations—for Aperol Spritzes under warm Tuscan skies. Dinner featured local Lucchese specialties like tordelli lucchesi, local pecorino cheese, and regional wine, marking a memorable evening in one of Italy’s grandest historic cities.

Tomorrow

Tomorrow on Day 10, our route heads toward the Apuan Alps and coastal roads leading into Liguria. We will exchange rolling hills for dramatic marble peaks and sea vistas as our European expedition continues north.

Ride This Tour Yourself

If Monte Amiata’s hairpins, Volterra’s Etruscan cliffs, and Lucca’s Renaissance walls inspire your next riding adventure, join us on our flagship Twisties & The Tuscan Sun Motorcycle Tour. Places for 2027 departures are available now with small group sizes guaranteed.

Frequently Asked Questions: Day 9 & Tuscan Motorcycle Touring

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